St. John RTW Fall 2021 Review – WWD

With four collections behind her, designer Zoe Turner is settling into her role at St. John. For fall, the Brit-in-Orange County continued to push the brand’s tailored and tweedy codes into a more contemporary realm, using subtle inspiration from fashion’s current favorite decade, the ’90s, and a SoCal sand-and-surf palette.

Take the great-looking sandy tweed knit set with a slouchy sleeveless turtleneck tunic inspired by a basketball tank, over gently flared trousers. Street but make it St. John. Turner also revisited the oversize tweed shirt jacket over jogging pants look from pre-fall, and gave a cropped jacket and five-pocket top stitched pants the knit treatment, for a tweed take on denim.

Playful outerwear came in the form of a whisper-white feathery faux fur, a bonded nylon Dalmatian pattern coat, and a wet-look, laminated silver tweed trench.

Not forgetting more dressed-up tailoring, Turner’s new suit was a neutral-toned boxy cropped boucle jacket over high-waisted pants. Oversized brass eyelets created cool ventilation on a sky blue and lavender melange blazer and wrap skirt, and matte gold buttons reminiscent of sea-tumbled stones embellished a 1960s-looking apple green shrunken miniskirt suit. A black tweed bustier dress with crisscrossing gold chain halter straps was another inventive use of hardware.

Meanwhile, a lilac silk jersey cape dress with buoyant volume, and a sheer nylon viscose gown worked with origami-like squares showcased the softer side of the Fosun-owned knitwear specialty shop.

“There’s more optimism in the air with the vaccines, and it’s going very well in Asia, which has recovered quicker than we have,” Turner said of her business outlook for 2021. “We’ve used this time to our advantage to better organize, develop textiles and techniques for how we put together garments. Now it’s the perfect time for us to start pushing the collections.”

Also on her to-do list, besides finding permanent housing in Southern California? Revamping the St. John boutiques. “There is a bit of a detachment from the garments, so it’s something we’re working on.”

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